Well, not contrasting
the whole of Asia of course, that’s just too much, and actually just the Adelaide
area in Australia. Starting point was Taiwan as in the previous blog,
definitely part of Asia but well-advanced along the path to … to what? Let’s
leave that to later. Next came Vietnam, then Cambodia, then briefly Thailand
and finally Adelaide.
First thing
that hit me in Adelaide was the traffic. Not literally of course, that was much
more likely in Asia. Crossing the road in Hanoi, Ho Chi Min City, Phnom Pen and
so on takes bravura, confidence and luck. Pedestrian crossings do exist, but
are ignored. The traffic forms an almost constant rapid stream and consists mainly
of motor scooters, some carrying entire families. The pavements are littered with
the remains of people who gave up on crossing or were slaughtered in the
attempt. That last is an exaggeration of course, but the rest is not. No one is
going to stop to let you go, so you just have to go. And somehow, miraculously,
the traffic forms a bubble around you as you pass. It is actually very
efficient. In Adelaide I was castigated
for daring to cross the road where there was no crossing, and was amazed to see
groups of people waiting for a crossing light to turn green when there was no
traffic on the road at all. Fresh from Asia I had to constantly restrain myself.
In Adelaide
the roads are generally excellent, in Cambodia and to a lesser extent Vietnam;
they are likely to have stretches that are not metalled, possibly never have
been. The dust kicked up by cars speeding over these stretches is spectacular,
and for cyclists such as myself suffocating and blinding. In Cambodia people
are packed tightly, standing room only, into open trucks. I saw this soon after
crossing the border from Vietnam and was both amazed and appalled. Yet as we, seated
comfortably in a bus, passed by them they waved and smiled at us.
As an ex-telephone
engineer I take a passing interest in wiring. In Adelaide there is not much to
see, in Vietnam and Cambodia you cannot miss it. Multiple cables hang like
tangled liquorice from poles, buildings and anything that is stationery. A
puzzling mesh which would seem impossible to maintain and is possibly dangerous,
thus similar to the public transport networks of those two countries.
May I
mention toilets? Yes I can. Oddly enough I prefer the miniature hand operated
shower heads attached to each of them in Asia over the wasteful use of tissue
paper. That said the general standard of toilet repair and cleanliness is far
superior in Adelaide.
Now a rapid
switch of subject to wildlife. I saw little in Asia (apart from the Kratie rats
and dolphins); though I must confess I did not visit many national parks.
However, the fauna of Australia is in your face: in the gardens, parks and
roadsides in fact almost everywhere. I especially enjoyed the Australian birds:
from the tuneful magpie to the friendly willy wagtail and the colourful eastern
rosella and more. Then there are the koalas, kangaroos, echidnas and so on –
wonderful.
With
regards to people, well its all so mixed up nowadays, but I found the
Cambodians the friendliest, possibly the most relaxed and probably the most
attractive.
The currency
in both Vietnam and Cambodia is quite ridiculous. I regularly drew two million
dong from the cash machines in Vietnam, those that worked for me that is, so I
now know how it feels to be a millionaire.
Cambodians have a similarly inflated riel but most business is done in
American dollars there. I carried one 10$ note with me during all my time in
that country and, though I regularly offered it up as payment, it was always
refused because it had a minute tear along one edge. Yet in Australia it was
changed without a glance.
Then there
is food, a sensitive topic for a man with a sensitive stomach. Vietnam leans
towards China for many things, yet it also embraces bread as well as rice.
Cambodia leans more towards India but has its own recipes, I particularly liked
‘amok’ - curried fish in coconut milk eaten with boiled rice. And Australia
leads on snitzel which the sensitive stomach appreciates. But in truth there is
little contrast here since Adelaide offers food from all over Asia in addition
to British and American staples.
In terms of
development Adelaide is a nice clean city with beautiful parks, and everything
works. Taiwan could be regarded similarly in relation to the rest of Asia and Thailand
is not far behind it. Vietnam comes next displaying a remarkable recovery from
that dreadful war with America and, though there is some way to go, the improvements
wrought by a capitalist based economy are visible everywhere. Cambodia must be
regarded as a work in progress on many fronts, yet blessed with a pleasant capital
and lots of temples – oh so many temples. Please, no more temples.
Finally, I
haven’t mentioned pubs. All I can say is how nice it was to return to England and
drink a few pints of real ale in my local.
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