Travelling through France from Spain is never dull, but our
latest journey in mid November 2018 was definitely special. This time we travelled west across Spain from
our village of La Fresneda in order to cross the Pyrenees in the Basque country
just above the famous city of Pamplona. We spent the night in a vast deserted
car park next to a (closed) nature and adventure park and I was, quite
unusually, taken ill. I had to find a doctor’s next day or could not face the
1,000 mile drive to England. Dr Carlos put me right, but the treatment
seemingly denied alcohol which, though not essential, does light up the nights
of travel.
We stayed in the delightful Basque village of Lantz on the
second night, it was small, but had both a restaurant and a shop. Only problem
was both were closed. The locals were
very friendly so I approached a lady and asked in poor French if anyone raised
hens in the village and might allow us to buy eggs. She said no, but told us to
wait where we were and quickly rushed back with five eggs! She then wouldn’t
take anything in payment for them! Aren’t some people generous? This enabled to
have a decent meal in the van, and it was very good.
Later in the trip we left the lovely village of Beaumont
Sarthe just north of Le Mans where we had dined in a warm, friendly place
served by a shy but helpful fourteen-year-old young lady. The village had an
excellent river, ancient chateau and delightful gardens. However, heading into
Alencon the road was blocked: black smoke poured from the roundabout and there
were many people there in yellow hi-vis jackets. It seemed to us that there had
been a bad accident, but this was no accident. In fact it seemed more like a
street party - at a roundabout! Cars and vans were parked any old way, tyres
were burning smokily, wooden pallets were burning merrily, and music was
playing loudly in competition with sirens, car horns and raucous singing. I
found it all quite exciting; many years had passed since my own demo days.
We were allowed to weave the van around part of the
roundabout, the yellow draped figures shouting merrily at us. They were all
smiles for us, but there was something altogether more serious going on. Just
beyond the roundabout I parked up and walked back to join in. The smoke, the
noise, the friendliness, the bizarre spectacle itself really energised me. I
learned that Macron was the problem. To quote from one ragged poster he was:
pompier, dictateur, royaliste, menteur, arrogant, opportuniste, nuisible. You probably
get the message. Motorcyclists were a central part of the protest: revving
their machines to the point of near explosion, roaring up and down the traumatised
roads, weaving around the crowds. The protestors told me that it was all about increased
taxation, especially on fuel. I didn’t know what side I was on, but I certainly
felt part of the crowd. We had to take the toll road to get away – that cost us
nearly forty Euros Mr Macron.
Then we were blocked again at Rouen, both in and out of the
city, this time with larger crowds and longer delays. Hey, this was not so much
fun after all. We then travelled north to Abbeyville where we hoped to sleep
for the night en route to Calais for our boat to England the next day. We could
not get in! Yet another protest barrier greeted us as we came off the main road,
Darkness was falling when we were finally allowed to pass that barrier and then
we hit another! Someone told me that we probably would not get into Abbeyville
at all, so I reversed back and headed out into the darkness.
Fortunately, after some twenty miles, we found Chez Natalie,
a small pub cum restaurant. It was open and welcoming. We had a great French
meal sitting next to a warming wood stove whilst watching the recollections of
the revolution on TV – we did not see ourselves: our part in the revolution
remains a secret. However, the whole
thing was an interesting experience giving an insight into both the French
mentality and, perhaps, my own.
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